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Berger - Gruner Veltliner 2021 (1L)

Price: $14.99

In Mixed Case: $13.49

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Producer Berger
Country Austria
Region Lower Austria
Varietal Gruner Veltliner
Vintage 2021
Sku 9120011149671
Size 1L
 Sustainable 

Berger Description

Importers Note:

I wonder when was the last time I wrote a tasting note for this wine. Usually it was “good again,” sometimes very good, and I tried to “make the sale” for the category. Now here is the wine.

The wine, as always, is true. In contrast to the Setzer it’s creamier (but not actually “creamy”) and sweeter (but obviously not “sweet.”) and it has some of the semolina-savor of loess-grown GV, though I doubt it’s all from loess – there’s a lot of contract-purchased fruit in it, though often the first bottling of a vintage is 100% estate. There’s iron and pepper in the mix also; sandy soils can give those flavors.

It’s enough for such a wine to be honest and agreeable, but in many vintages this is more than agreeable, and this is one of them. There’s texture here, structure, contour and grip. It doesn’t “need” to be this good. But Erich Berger has a deep conscience.

​I sold this wine from the very start, back in 1994. “Berger Liters” became a bit of a thing, and then suddenly everyone was offering Liters of GV (with cute names and whimsical labels). Most were just fine – the general level of competence is high in Austria – but it started being a race to the bottom price-wise. Then Liters seemed to become infra dig, but recently they seem to have been rediscovered.

​Being a mere humble scribe these days, I can only remark that wines like this – and this one especially – are a real gift to the wine community. East on the wallet, frisky on the palate, super pleasant if “pleasant” is all that’s needed, but offering class and animation for anyone tasting attentively.

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